Caracas Country Club. One of the oldest golf clubs in Venezuela, born in 1918 and named so in 1922. It sits in the middle of the city of Caracas in segments, separated by houses and streets. A player passes through tall fences topped by razorwire and guarded by police in order to move onto the next hole. The view of the mountains on most of the holes is spectacular. The price of joining is spectacular. In addition to its history and beauty, it's also a source of controversy, according to an article published in the NYTimes in December. Many private companies have been seized by Hugo Chavez's government in the name of its Socialist Revolution, and Chavez is quoted saying something along the lines of "if the Country Club doesn't help out the poor by giving up land or helping to house those displaced in floods earlier this year, the government will force it." (http://www.nytimes.com/2010/12/28/world/americas/28venez.html). However, lucky for me, nothing like this has been done so far and I got to walk the 18 gorgeous holes today in a practice round of golf with Jose, Pedro, and Yoni as they prepared to play in a tournement at this prestigious establishment beginning tomorrow.
As we drove back from the beach city of Rio Chico on Sunday (or rather as the chauffer drove), I was told that the barrio of Caracas is the largest in South America. Ranchos (shacks) cover the sides of 2 or 3 mountains, one upon the other with a stairway leading from the bottom as the only noticable means of scaling the impoverished dwellings. The brightly colored squares blanket the natural beauty of Caracas' mountains and seem to occupy a square of the city, looking down on central Caracas in the valley (Country Club included) and facing the other mountains where the houses are much bigger, much more expensive (I don't think you have to pay to live in a rancho), and much more secure (walls, fences, electric fences, razorwire etc). It's compelling to look out across the valley and see the other. They're so close, but really so far, physically, socioeconomically, and I think ideally. I'm not sure the emphasis that is put on education in barrios, or the availability of good education, but I do know someone who rose out of one of the worst barrios in Rio de Janiero, so I like to think that hard work, perserverence, and intelligence can get a person out of poverty. What's funny also is that many billboards displaying Chavez's "Socialist feats" and propaganda are located here including Chavez-philic graffiti.
One last thing that's caught my attention, and made me sort of glad that I don't have a working phone: in the car yesterday Pedro's mom warned us to hide our phones at one of the stoplights. "Here they rob phones" she said. And in the car no one puts their phone or purse in plain sight and especially not with a window down. One must always be on their guard, and if I had anything of value I would be so tired of keeping my things close to me. Even when I carry a bag I'm reminded not to put it behind me because someone could easily grab it. I suppose being a gringa makes me even more of a target, but I haven't gotten any second glances yet. Such a strange mindset, I'm still getting used to it. I think it's part Big City, and part Caracas. Maybe 70-30 (Caracas 70). Anyway, it's so beautiful. And who needs a phone anyway? ;)
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